Kyoto for first-timers

Kyoto was Japan's capital for a thousand years and has around 1,600 temples. The famous handful get very crowded, so timing matters more here than anywhere else in Japan.

The essential circuit

• Fushimi Inari — walk the torii gates at dawn or after 5pm
• Kiyomizu-dera and the lanes of Higashiyama
• Arashiyama bamboo grove before 8am, then Tenryu-ji
• Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion)
• Gion at dusk — observe, don't photograph geiko on private lanes
• Nishiki Market for lunch

Getting around

Buses cover the temples but are often full. Combine the subway, JR and Keihan/Hankyu lines with walking; taxis are good value for groups of three or four.